Telephone: +41 219 645 230
fax: +41 219 645 530
Last visited September 2004
Situated in a small village just on the main road and next to a bridge, it should be noted that parking can be a problem. The dining room is cosy and pleasantly decorated, with half a dozen tables in a one room and a further room off to the other side of reception. Amuse guele was rather ordinary, mainly a series of things on croutons or rather mediocre pastry bases: crab, chicken liver pate, cheese with tiny potato crisps, tomato with radish and olive, tomato with olive and cucumber, a vol au vent with leeks, a couple of cheese straws and (oddly) a pair of French fries (7/10 at best for the amuse guele). A second nibble was better, a flaky pastry base on which were tiny anchovies with a tapenade and tiny slice of courgettes, tomatoes and gherkin, together with a little lettuce with good dressing. This was decorated prettily with a tomato skin that had the top of the tomato and cut-off skin that was blanched and shaped as flower petals (8/10). Bread consisted of rolls of olive and cereal, and white slices (7/10). Service was capable but by no means perfect e.g. topping up was a problem on several occasions, and at times there were no staff at all in the dining room.
Our starter was each of three langoustines, superbly fresh and perfectly timed, served partly in their shell. This was offered with an excellent mixed leaf salad with a lovely dressing, and a few baby artichoke hearts. The dish was decorated with smears of mint-green sauce vierge (9/10). For main course, we shared a whole John Dory, filleted at the table. This had remarkable flavour, and was served with a diced tomatoes and black olive slices, as well as a selection of fresh vegetables: carrot, courgette, potato, baby turnip, caramelised onion, roast garlic, baby squash stuffed with tomato puree and spinach leaf stiffed with finely diced root vegetables, and the dish was decorated with a deep-fried sage leaf and a couple of sprigs of thyme. There was also a whole baby tomato topped with herbs and breadcrumbs; the vegetables were very fresh and had excellent flavour (10/10).
Cheese was in great condition: Munster was nicely soft without having gone too far, two fresh goats cheeses were excellent, an aged gruyere tasted very like aged Comte, while there was also the best Colombier I have ever tasted (10/10). These were served with rather ordinary walnut bread.
For dessert I had a chocolate mousse in a circular shape, surrounded by a series of chocolate-covered nut tuiles; the mousse was glazed and topped with some gold leaf. The mousse had superb intensity (9/10). Stella had plum crumble, where the crumble consisted of a biscuit base at the bottom of the dish, topped with plums and served with a scoop of plum sorbet and a scoop of intense almond ice cream and a fresh fruit salad of blackberry, strawberry, raspberry and plum.
Petit fours were a superb raspberry macaroon, a lemon tart, orange rind dipped in chocolate, a strawberry jelly, a blackcurrant jelly, an almond tuile, a hazelnut tuile, a chocolate tart, a tart with raspberry and mint, a tart of wild strawberries, a min plum crumble, two coffee éclairs, slices of chocolate with hazenut cream, a chocolate butterscotch, a white chocolate with coconut and a dark chocolate with rich chocolate filling. These were superb (10/10) as was coffee. We had Mas de Daumas Gassac white and a glass of Swiss Gewürztraminer dessert wine, the bill for two coming to CHF 570.
Telephone: +41 21 634 05 05
Fax: +41 21 634 24 64
(closed two weeks in August and 2 week over Christmas and New Year)
Last visited September 2004
The restaurant is in the
Bread is a selection of rolls: olive, cereal, white, brown, country and black bread (9/10). Amuse guele was a slice of vegetable terrine served with a little artichoke and an excellent small salad with a fine grapefruit dressing (8/10). Stella started with ravioli of celery, served with tiny diced potato, pistachios and chopped vegetables served with a celery froth (9/10). Even better was my starter, two beautifully presented hemispheres consisting of ceps mousse surrounded by a perfect fan of cep slices, almost like a 3D tarte tatin in appearance, the mushrooms resting in a frothy sauce of the cooking juices. The taste of the ceps was as sublime as the presentation, and I would rate this dishes one of the most memorable I have ever eaten (10/10 is insufficient).
We shared a large slab of turbot carved at the table, served with a creamy vin jeune sauce laced with crushed peppercorns, which worked really well to give an edge to the sauce without overwhelming it. Alongside were some perfect baby tomatoes, some carrot, fennel, a skewer of black olives and a small potato filled with roasted onion (10/10).
Cheese was in fine condition:
Brie was runny, Camembert tasty, a fresh goat smooth, St Maure
silky rather than chalky and
A pre dessert of sorbets and
ice creams were all in perfect condition: apricot, blackcurrant and strawberry
sorbet, caramel, vanilla and lemon ice cream (10/10). Our main dessert was a perfect passion fruit
soufflé served with passion fruit coulis. After all this, you are presented with a
selection from a large dessert trolley (which, rather sneakily, you are charged
extra for though this is not announced).
Here is a wide selection of tarts and fruits; I had a lovely
Coffee was excellent, though perhaps only 9/10 but served with fine petit fours: a passion fruit macaroon, a raspberry sponge, a chocolate truffle, a tart of mixed fruit (strawberry, raspberry, blueberry with a spear of sugar) a red fruit jelly, a lemon sponge, a choux bun, a palet d’or chocolate, a chocolate with hazelnut filling, some chocolate covered almonds and a chocolate with a liquid raspberry centre.
We had Cuvee Frederich Emile from Trimbach from a mostly French wine list. Overall a really magnificent meal.